This is an a/c kit from Bud's Benz. Out of a possible score of 100, with 100 = "the way I think it should have been done in the first place", I rate the kit about 80. Overall good, but a few changes were needed.

In particular, the condenser in the kit is supposed to fit a 230 SL; for a 280 SL, it had to be replaced with one slightly smaller. Some hoses had to be modified, too. Together these add about $200 to the job. Throw in a radiator recore with a high-efficiency core for another $240. A number of other changes were made as well, I can detail them if anyone is interested.

George Davis
1969 280SL Euro

aircon_underdash1.jpg (76 Kb, 1126 downloads) JPG

Hesse,

I'd guess the Bud's Benz kit might work as a starting point. The 220 and 230 blocks should be the same, so the a/c compressor mounting plate should work... can't guarantee that, though. You'd have to modify the kit quite a lot and ad lib a few parts, I believe, but you'd have the basics. Or find an original factory set if such things exist.

Good luck!

Hello
I've got a 1962 Mercedes 220 SE Coupe, Type W111 (I know this is not a Pagoda SL ) but I am trying to find a aftermarket -bolt on- solution, to get a air conditioner fitted in my ol' Benz. Can anybody held me here?
Thx for any answer!!!
Hesse

I'm actually trying to do the reverse. I'm removing the A/C from the car. Can you tell me where the alternate shold be mounted and how the belts are routed, on a 280SL without A/C? Mine is a late model 1971, if that matters any.

SD, here in Europe, they are all finished in the same colour as the body paintwork - ie, it matches the dashboard. Understand that a few 'export' models used leather of the same colour as the seats, I have seen two here in Europe, one in Amsterdam and one in Paris with that finish.

To George D,

After going through all the trials and tribulations of trying to use the original compressor bracket off a 280Sl, I've finally decided to cry uncle and go to the top mounted system like some of you guys have. I had the system all set up and it was really pumping some good cold air, but after a while I started to get this terrible screeching from my alternator/compressor/water pump/fan belt and When I took a better look, I could see that the belt was slipping on the water pump--not a good thing and a real recipe for overheating. I tried fitting a number of different size belts and styles (notched, etc) and did no better. When I thought more about it, I came to see this as a real weak link and single point of failure for this set up. With the top mounted compressor you guys are using, if you have a compressor clutch freezeup, or the a/c belt breaks, it does not take down the whole system-not to mention how much easier it is to disconnect the whole a/c system or change a belt if you need do so. So I've decide to use the Bud's Benz type a/c bracket--I was fortunate enough to come by one off a wreck a while ago and had it sitting around. What I don't have though is the fitting that goes to the thermostat housing from the FI. I noticed that you mentioned this in your post and had found another way to do it by making a hollow banjo bolt or something, could you elaborate on this and any other install tips regarding the bracket e.g. use of spacers, any other support behind the compressor etc. thanks--George Des

This is my second 1970 280SL and they both had the same black trimmed A/C. The first one had black leather interior and the second bamboo MB tex.

quote:

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Originally posted by SD280SL:
In cars that do not have black interiors (ie: red), what color should the a/c unit be. Was it always black, or matched the interior color?
Not only the faceframe, but the cover underneath.

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my car is a 71 red ex. parchment int,with original a.c.and it is black.

quote:

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Originally posted by SD280SL:
In cars that do not have black interiors (ie: red), what color should the a/c unit be. Was it always black, or matched the interior color?
Not only the faceframe, but the cover underneath.

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my car is a 71 red ex. parchment int,with original a.c.and it is black.

In cars that do not have black interiors (ie: red), what color should the a/c unit be. Was it always black, or matched the interior color?
Not only the faceframe, but the cover underneath.

One addition to post below, regarding the relay. The "switched 12v source" that I used was one terminal of a dual auxilliary fuse box located next to the voltage regulator. It is powered when key is in position 1 or 2. Having it powered in position 1 isn't the best arrangement, but it was so handy I used it anyway. A circuit powered only in position 2 would be better.

George Davis
1969 280SL Euro

Boy, lots of discussion on this topic! I'll try to answer some questions from below. These all apply to the Bud's Benz aftermarket a/c kit.

The condenser does not have the aux. condenser fitted to original systems. The one I'm using is, I believe, a parallel flow type and I'm hoping it will work well by itself. System isn't quite done yet, so I can't say how it works.

I plan to use R-134a. With an all-new system, I understand the only thing necessary is to use the right oil and o-rings. With a system that was previously using R-12, the system should be flushed before switching. An a/c shop can do this for you.

The relay is an off the shelf 30-amp Hella from an auto parts store, wired as shown in attached drawing.

Other changes to the kit:
In the kit, the coolant pipe from venturi heater to front of block is replaced by a cheesy little fitting. I made a longer banjo bolt and spacer and used the original pipe, but had to rebend it a bit, too.
The left mount for the underdash unit is a metal tab, kit supplies a long sheet metal screw to run through the tab, through the dash pad and into the bottom of the dash. Not acceptable. I mounted it using the right main mount. Hard to understand without seeing the unit, but I can go into more detail for anyone interested. The main message is you don't have to drill a hole in the dash or dash pad.
A couple of hex screws for the main bracket had to be replaced with flat-head screws and counter-sunk to clear the fan pulley.
The belt with the kit was too long, probably for cars without power steering. I got a shorter one locally.

George Des, the 1 3/8 punch sounds nice. I used a bi-metal hole saw and it worked quite well, but the punch will be much less nerve-wracking.

As far as I can tell, the ICE website noted below is "probably" the supplier of the kit's compressor, but I can't tell if they supply the entire kit.

George Davis
1969 280SL Euro

relay_basic1.jpg (27 Kb, 841 downloads)

JeffC

The site links did not come through on my last post--if interested I guess I would need to e-mail them to you--george Des

JeffC

I got the Sanden 508 from this site . You can shop around by doing a search on a/c compressors--from time to time you'll find better deals on various sites. Also e-bay usually has several on any one auction day. The parallel flow condesnor is the saem story. I got mine through . The remaining Frigiking parts--the evaporator unit and compressor bracket I got through an e-bay auction.

George Des

George Des,

Thanks for the info. Where did you buy the compressor and other parts from? Another alternative to the second condensor you might consider is a electric fan. I took a look at a new E500 the other day and noticed that it has no engine driven fan. Only a big electric puller fan. You could also think about adding a smaller aux fan in front of the new condensor you have. In order to make it fit I suggest you mount the fan directly to the condensor using those thru condensor or radiator type bolts. There is not much room upfront because of the way the hood opens but I think it can work. I recently ordered a variable speed controller for my new aux fan. It will take an input from the A/C and turn on at 60% when the A/C comes on. The thermostat is adjustable and it will increase to 100% over the next 10 degrees, depending where you set it up initially. The fan seems to move air quite nicely.

I would not be surprized if the combination fan and A/C requires an upgrade to my alternator.

Stan,

I have a separate post concerning aux fans. Look down the page and you will see it.

Jeff,
I am interetsed to hear more about your aux. cooling fan.
What brand/where did you buy it? Where/how is it installed?
I think that many people have concidered such an installation.
Thanks.

Regards,
Stan

JeffC,

The Sanden 508 I have is labeled to work with R-134a. Not sure what the difference is between one designed for R-12 and 134 except maybe the oil it comes prepackaged with and perhaps the o-rings. I have not installed the underhood components yet so I can't cmt on the interface bracket although I've set it up off-car to see how it will ride. The other thing I will need to figure out is whether to mount the two bar-like support struts used with the York set-up. I assume these are to dampen any vibration from the piston type compressors. I do have a parallel flow condensor that is ever so slightly smaller than the original tube and fin condensor. I do not have the smaller primary condensor that fits under the front bumper. I'm going to give this set-up a shot to see how well it works w/o the bumper mounted condensor to avoid all that extra plumbing--hopefully the high efficiency condensor up front will eliminate the need for this. If it deosn't provide enough cooling, I'll probably try to have a custom built under bumper parallel flow unit made up. Will use all new hoses and fittings including a new dryer. The remainder of the system i.e. the evaporator and main compressor bracket are from the original Kuhlmeister set-up. See where you live up the road in Potomac-so you know how unbearable these D.C summers can be w/o a/c. I've had my 230Sl since 1977 and have always put it up during the hottest part of the year becasue of this. I know some will say it's a convertible but to anyone who hasn't experienced the heat and humidity of a D.C. summer--it's no fun jumping into a "sauna bath" and driving through traffic after sitting in an a/c office all day

Regards,

George Des

George D

Just wanted to say thanks for the images and evaluation of your A/C unit. I live in Texas, so an A/C unit is in my future (hopefully my near future). I thought I'd have to move the alternator to the "1 o'clock" position and place the compressor in the original alternator location. What a relief not to have to hassle with do so! Overall, I think the system is pretty nice. Much of the anxiety is gone.

JeffC posted the following link and suggested it may be the company that manufactures the units for BudsBenz: www.iceac.com Can you tell enough from their web site to form an opinion?

Thanks again for the help and images.

Cheers!

quote:

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Originally posted by George D:
This is an a/c kit from Bud's Benz. Out of a possible score of 100, with 100 = "the way I think it should have been done in the first place", I rate the kit about 80. Overall good, but a few changes were needed.

In particular, the condenser in the kit is supposed to fit a 230 SL; for a 280 SL, it had to be replaced with one slightly smaller. Some hoses had to be modified, too. Together these add about $200 to the job. Throw in a radiator recore with a high-efficiency core for another $240. A number of other changes were made as well, I can detail them if anyone is interested.

George Davis
1969 280SL Euro

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Tony M
1965 230SL - Auto

George D

I'm interested in doing the same thing as you. The Sanden manual designates the SD508 as an R12 system. The equivalent R134a compressor is SD5H14. Maybe they are the same unit but with different oil or something. Anyway I just fitted my car with an aux fan. The fan controller takes an input from the A/C to turn it on when the A/C is on. Right now both old condensors are out of the car. I need to decide if a new higher efficiency condensor is the way to go or get the main condensor cleaned and tested and then reinstall it I wonder if the smaller condensor is needed if I have the electric fan. While only 12 inches in diameter the fan seems to move the air quite nicely while in the garage.

Have you purchased the adapter bracket? How hard was it to install and get tension on the belts?